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The taste of Cognac
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The taste of Cognac without too much alcoholFor a long time now, it has been a custom for the wine makers of this area to pour Cognac in their coffee, before setting light to it, in order to reduce the alcohol content yet preserve the taste of the cognac. From this fairly simple concept was born the recipe for Brulot Charentais. This tradition had almost disappeared - no doubt at the same time as the phylloxera crisis, hit the Charentais vineyards. Brulot Charentais was an excellent way to finish family meals or mark any 'grand' occasion. For many, the product is often misunderstood. It is often confused with Cognac poured straight into the coffee cup. The flame. Jean-Claude Roux of course waxes lyrical on the subject. This wine maker from Saint Maigrin, co-founder of the family company 'Domaine Castel-Sablons', has succeeded in a few decades to relaunch and then commercialise an ancient product. If at the beginning his clientele was mainly individuals, orders began to extend into the shops and restaurants. His market covers some export territories, as well as France. Jean-Claude convinces me to try the drink: "Believe me, I've tested myself the old recipe, kept secret for generations and refined it over time. To make a Brulot, you need a young, robust Cognac. I recommend a flammable product at 58% alcohol content. Below that and the combustion does not work". From a carefully prepared gift-box, he produces a bottle of Cognac, earthenware cups, saucers and coasters. Developing good sense. Jean-Claude Roux has managed to adapt his 'patter' to suit the times. "There is more than one way to consume a Cognac". Nowadays the pleasure of drinking more than a glass of strong alcohol can be criticised. With Brulot Charentais the flavour of the Cognac is preserved, whilst its alcohol content reduced. Imagine that in about 10 cl of Cognac only 2 to 3 % alcohol remains due to evaporation. Not that the recipe seeks to discharge responsibility from the reckless motorist who consumes too much alcohol before driving; rather it seeks to delay the consumer at the table, to enjoy precious moments with family and friends, rather than immediately taking the wheel. Soon my gaze moves towards the flickering blue flame above the cup. The flaming Cognac over the coffee emits a subtle, delicate perfume. For the pleasure of the senses and the spirit, lower the lights and make some space. Time stops for a magical moment. An old recipe Jean-Claude proposes the following recipe: place a cup in a hollow saucer.
Avoid fragile porcelain crockery. An earthenware, rounded cup is best.
Fill to about 1 centimetre from the top with cold coffee, then carefully
pour in the special Brulot Charentais Cognac (over the back of a small
spoon, so that it will float and catch light). Place 3 sugar lumps around
the saucer, and fill to about two thirds. Light the sugar with a match:
the Cognac will light and heat the coffee. When the flame extinguishes,
wait 4 - 5 minutes, then put the cup on the coaster and pour the contents
of the saucer into the cup. Translated from an article by Pierre Lascourreges that appeared in the Sud Ouest newspaper, 21st April 2003 |
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